I had such a wonderful, wonderful time in Kyoto. I've discovered that if your determined enough to get or do something, then it's going to happen. You just have to make it happen.

Before I got there I created a select few goals for myself: I wanted to buy some kanzashi (hair ornaments), I wanted to see and meet Toshihana because she is my favorite geiko, and I wanted a coffee cup from Starbucks that said Kyoto on it. Yea, strange goal. Anyway, my ultimate reason for coming to Kyoto: to see my favorite maiko, Taneju, become a full fledged geiko (geisha) on Friday.

After working all Tuesday night, I got home Wednesday morning, finished last minute packing, and left to catch the Shinkansen (the bullet train). It took only a few hours to get to Kyoto, and when I arrived I set out immediately with my camera. I got to see the Ichirikitei, the most famous tea house in all of Japan, in Gion Kobu, but I didn't bother with pictures. For that matter, I didn't really touch Gion Kobu except twice on short pass-throughs, and I didn't bother going to the other geisha districts except Miyagawacho. Once I set my goals, I didn't want to deviate.

That first day I saw many maiko, though I could only name Toshiyui. I also met several shikomi and a minarai, Toshikana (didn't realize it was her until later). I didn't get too many pictures of them. My goal was to locate Taneju's okiya, and with the help of a friend and fellow photographer who also loves geiko and maiko, I was able to see it. Some lady came out of the okiya and saw me there down the alley, waiting with a camera and wearing kimono. She talked to me a bit. In my very limited Japanese, I said I was a fan of Taneju's and wanted to get a picture of her sakko hairstyle. Today was the last day anyone would be able to get a picture. The old lady told me to wait and wandered back inside the okiya. I felt elated. She came out after a bit and told me Taneju would be coming out at 5:30, so to wait here. Sweet! So I waited and waited, getting bit by mosquitoes in the while, but very content and happy with my situation. After a while, the lady, a geiko I didn't recognize, a shikomi, and Taneju all stepped out, walking down the alley. I scrambled out of the way. Taneju saw me, held up a finger and said, "One shot!" She let me take two photos of her. Ah, I love you Taneju!! You're so cool.

I did forget to mention the bit that, while waiting outside Taneju's, head swiveling left and right to watch for passing maiko and geiko--I saw her. It was like a dream. As she usually did, she was walking slowly, with her head down. I recognized that haori, her face, everything. Toshihana. She was my all-time favorite geiko. A gorgeous face, a cute and shy personality. I admired her a lot. It was my dream come true to meet her. Heart racing, I stepped forward a bit and said, "Toshihana?" And asked for a picture. She seemed surprised I knew her name. She paused for a picture, for which I was extremely grateful. I didn't bother to look at it and I didn't want to take her time, so I bowed and thanked her very much. The picture came out blurry, but hey, I still got one! And I got to meet her, sweet!
I also happened to stop in a fan shop and after a bit of talking with the ladies, I spotted Komomo's uchiwa. They let me have it. Nice!

The next day, Thursday, I happened to see Taneju again doing her while standing outside the Hanafusa okiya. Dressed casually in a pink kimono, hair down, she told me herself her erikae was at one thirty. I repeated the time to double check, and then she wrote it down for me. WOO HOO! Thanks, Taneju. You're so cool.

On the advice/suggestion from a friend, I carried with me my kaomise kanzashi. This hair ornament is worn by maiko in December. It features a small white board that, after seeing a special kaomise kabuki play, they ask their favorite actors to sign. My friend said I should get Toshihana to sign it, though I wouldn't see her again that nightp probably. Paw! I was about to prove THAT wrong. After wandering in Miyagawa for many hours, I did finally get to see her, in a gorgeous light blue kimono and white obi. I was glad and grateful to see she had a free hand, and lightly asked if she could sign my kanzashi. "Miyawacho or [my name]?" she asked, and I replied, "Toshihana." I think I said please. I hope I did. I was so nervous. I tried using my hand as a support as she took my pen and signed the small white board in black ink. My hand was shaking. TOSHIHANA WAS SIGNING MY KAOMISE! I think I needed to remember to breath. I gave her a very grateful "Ookini!" and she gave a tiny smile and inclined her head, and headed off, in that slow, calm walk of hers. I watched her go.

I also got to see Komomo at one point, but only from the back. I knew it was her. She was talking on a cell phone. I started to follow, trying to work up the courage to have her sign her uchiwa for me. But I wanted to wait until she finished talking. Then, a maiko ran up beside her. I got a bit nervous. I never asked her to sign it, and I had wanted to tell her I loved her book too. Darn. Maybe next time I go to Kyoto....
Also, I took the opportunity to do maiko/geiko henshin--where tourists get to dress as a maiko or geiko and take pictures. I did the geiko one of course, I already have maiko pictures of myself. Pictures to be posted.

I do have to say though, all the pictures that I took on the second day came out very blurry. Why? MY LENS BROKE. For some reason, my camera just stopped taking pictures! It wasn't until I switched my lens to manual focus that it took pictures again, but everything was blurry. Taneju, Toshiteru, anyone who was nice enough to stop. Gah! I immediately called my friend who called a 3rd geiko photographer, who kindly agreed to lend me a lens. I'm eternally grateful. And I want to shoot my lens.

The third day--erikae!!! I was waiting outside with many other photographers. Toshihana passed by in full attire at one point, and when I called her name she stopped, smiled, bowed to me and another photographer. Yay! We walked back to Taneju's okiya as Toshihana went on her way. I was so excited to see Taneju and her gorgeous erikae kimono. Maiko came and went for a few hours, giving their congratulations in the okiya. A group of students from a university got to go inside her okiya. Very nice. I was a tinge jealous. Oh well. Well, that time came about. Me, my friend, and the third photographer who lent me his lens the day before, as well as many other photographers, all waited for Taneju. She did not disappoint, of course. Her kimono was the most gorgeous erikae kimono I have ever seen in my life. I'm in love with it. We followed Taneju as she made her rounds, all the way back to her okiya. It was fantastic.

What made up the day even more wwas a very special moment after she came outside her okiya again some moments later. Me and the other 2 I knew decided to standby, just in case. Taneju saw me and my friend and asked if I wanted a picture. I immediately asked, "Together? Can I?" and eagerly moved beside her. My friend said no geiko had ever done that before. I felt very honored. Taneju, you're so cool!

So, that was my wonderful time in Kyoto. I hope to go again a couple months from now.
Oh, and I have another goal. Must get an ozashiki with Toshihana and/or Taneju. (We'll see about THAT one...)